Tag Archives: Poland

Book Review: The Ice Road

The Ice Road is a remarkable book both because it tells a little-known but important story of human suffering and because it does so in a way that doesn’t leave you wanting to slit your wrists. It is the autobiographical tale of 14-year-old Polish boy Stefan Waydenfeld and his family who were exiled to Siberia during World War II. The book traces their journey in the cattle wagons and goods trains of the Soviet Union from their home in Poland to a Stalinist labour camp in the frozen north and then on to Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Persia.

The mass deportations of its citizens to remote and primitive corners of the Soviet Union during World War II is of monumental importance in the history of Poland. Between September 1939, when the Soviet Union invaded Poland in consort with Nazi Germany, and June 1941, when Hitler turned on Russia, the Soviet authorities forcibly exiled some 1.7 million people from the Polish territory under their control. They were sent to labour camps in the forests of northern Russia, to mines in Siberia and to arid regions of Soviet Asia. Precise figures will never be known, but it is estimated that about half of the deportees died from starvation, disease and the cold. Survivors and their descendants can still be found scattered across the fragmented Soviet empire today.

It sounds like a grim read, but it isn’t—the main reason that it isn’t being the fact that the author was a lively 14-year-old boy at the time of his deportation and, with the customary flexibility and innocence of youth, treated many of his experiences as grand adventures. The author himself explains this early in the narrative: “as is the privilege of youth, I lived my own life and only many years later; when I thought of our times in Siberia, did it strike me how ignorant I had been… of the sufferings of others and of the enormous difficulties of everyday life… I am almost ashamed to admit it, but at times I enjoyed my time in Siberia.”

The Waydenfelds were relatively lucky to find themselves assigned to an established logging encampment. A Russian inmate tells them: “You don’t know how lucky you are. When we were brought here twelve years ago this was virgin forest. We cleared it, pulled the roots out with our bare hands and built Kvasha where nothing stood before. Not many lived to see it finished.” They were also lucky not to have been sent to the Siberian mines with their horrendous mortality rates. It’s clear from Stefan’s narrative that they didn’t always have enough to eat, but nobody starves. Working conditions were harsh, especially in the minus-40-degree winter, but we don’t hear of anybody dying. It isn’t clear if this lack of tragedy is a result of the author’s confessed youthful solipsism or a realistic picture of one particularly fortunate fragment of the gulag.

There were certainly Boy’s Own adventures. Stefan recalls the thrill of bareback riding through the forests singing Russian songs and galloping from awakened bears, being sent alone into the wild to mark timber for the cutting crews, and an escape by raft that sounds too fantastical to be true. The raft episode marks a startling twist in the tale, and in history. Shortly after the Nazi invasion of Russia, Stalin released all deported Polish citizens and gave them a free pass to wherever in the Soviet Union they wanted to go—at least those that hadn’t already been shot in the back of the head or frozen to death. It was the kind of whimsical and hypocritical act of which only true dictators are capable, but it probably saved the Waydenfelds lives. A similar whimsy prompts them to name Astrakhan, a city thousands of kilometres away on the Caspian Sea, as their destination of choice.

This decision, about a third of the way into the book, is the start of a journey far more extraordinary than the one that took the family from Otwock to Siberia. It reads like an escape fantasy inspired by snow-crazed starvation, but it’s true and it was the experience of hundreds of thousands of Poles in 1941 and 1942. Stefan and his mother and father travel across the insane and panicked breadth of wartime Russia in cattle wagons, on luxury river cruisers, in buses and on foot. They live in unlikely sounding far flung cities like Chimkent and Yangi-Yul, glimpse the blue towers of Samarkand across the steppe, and bribe their way into and out of luxury and danger with alarming regularity. It’s an illuminating picture of a state in utter chaos where a few 10 rouble notes mean the difference between lice-ridden death and sleeping on feathers.

All along the way the Waydenfelds meet Poles like themselves making for rumoured Polish Army staging areas, many in rags, a few in luxury and all wondering what has happened to the officers—most of whom are in mass graves just outside Katyn. The book closes in a British refugee camp in the Iranian port of Pahlevi. Through epilogues and annexes we learn that Stefan later joined the Second Polish Corp and fought his way along the length of Italy. After the war, he married a Polish girl he met in Yangi-Yu, became a doctor and settled in London’s Kentish Town.

The Ice Road is not a sophisticated read, but it is a story you’ve never heard and would barely believe if history wasn’t there to tell you it was true. The book is published by Aquila Polonica—a publisher with the unlikely but laudable goal of telling “the greatest story never told… Poland in World War II” Read it, you won’t regret it.

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The New Building

I’m not dead, I’ve merely moved to Krowodrza. It’s similar to being dead, but the rents are higher and Internet access is less reliable. Although I am now just a few tens of metres beyond Aleje, this is enough to make me a suburban person. Us suburban people do not have access to 24-hours shops and are low on the list of priorities for Internet service providers. Netia promised to connect us within a month, but all they’ve managed to do so far is send round a Laurel and Hardy duo to cluck in a sceptical manner at the socket in my wall. Actually that’s not quite true, they also provided me with a mobile internet dongle that gives me a whole gigabyte of data transfer to lavish on a month of Internet use; putting this post up will probably eat half of it. Imagine what it would be like to be pleasantly surprised by customer service here, just once.

We were seduced by a New Building. After three years of living in a hundred-year-old kamienica in a flat with the kind of spiral staircase specifically outlawed by the Geneva Convention and average winter temperatures to rival Kamchatka we fell irretrievably in lust with a 50-square-metre-square pad with a balcony. I was always of the opinion that, if I was going to live in Krakow, I should be able to look out of my window and know I was in Krakow. Now I step onto my palatial balcony and look out on a scene that could well be Birmingham. I make myself feel better by fleeing into what seems like a vast kitchen and cooking scones.

The New Building is the acme of Polish urban ambition. It has an awful lot to recommend it. There are two lifts, one of which is large enough to take bikes, everybody has a balcony big enough to host ballroom dancing, and the heating comes on at October 1st sharp and will probably have us opening windows in February. People are far too polite, it’s as if we’re all permanently at a school open day where everybody says “Dzien dobry” and holds doors open all the time. The hardest thing to get used to is the guy on the door. He’s not there all the time, and I’m not really sure what his job is, but he wears a uniform and looks you up and down disapprovingly every evening. I think he’s supposed to be the building’s conscience.

Eventually I will get used to this strangeness and return to my habitual insightfulness.

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Protestors block relocation of presidential palace

Plans to relocate Warsaw’s presidential palace to a “more suitable” location have been scuppered by street violence. Clashes between riot priests and angry protestors prevented officials from moving the building late last night in scenes that have been described as: “a fairly typical Wednesday evening.”

The palace on Krakowskie Przedmieście was chosen as a temporary location for the office of the Polish President in 1994 during a period of national upheaval. “We never expected presidents to still be here almost 20 years later,” said Father Hubert Hamar. “There are 16 major churches on this street and just one presidential palace; I think it’s clear which one has to go.”

Opponents of the relocation disagree: “Elected presidents are an integral and ancient part of this nation’s culture,” said a masked protestor on the scene, lying slightly. “The church shouldn’t be afraid of a little old-fashioned democracy.” As dusk descended on the second day, protesters began to chant: “We are prepared to slightly inconvenience ourselves on the weekends for justice!”

The not very long-running protests over the fate of the presidential palace have deeply divided the nation. Many Poles are now saying that democratic rule was given unhealthy and unfair advantages in the famous 1993 concordat with the nation’s mohair-wearing grandmothers. Elected representatives are allowed to speak directly to voters and influence them through daily news and current-affairs programs.

The final destination of the presidential palace has not been revealed for security reasons but there is speculation that the building may be placed next to the national parliament, on a small flood-prone island in the Vistula or in Brussels.

President Komorowski was unavailable for comment because he was playing with his train set.

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Bizarre Polish Food

Because we are now media giants who have been mentioned on the evening news at least twice, all kinds of global corporations regularly get in touch with us asking how they too can become movers and shakers on Poland’s internets. As long as they can satisfy Scatts’ insatiably lust for Hummers, we try to help them out.

Hummers—we accept them as payment

This month, television production company Tremendous! Entertainment (corporate slogan: Yes, we really do have an exclamation mark in our name! Also in our slogan.) Wrote and asked if we could tell them about bizarre Polish food they could feature in an upcoming episode of their Travel Channel program: Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern. The premiss of the show is that a bald man travels to various countries and eats things that most Americans would call an exterminator to deal with. Asia, multi-legged insects and unusually-coloured eggs feature heavily. Weird foods in Poland—”You’re going to struggle” was my initial thought. Polish food can be very nice, but it’s not exactly unconventional from a Western perspective. An example of the program here.

A bald man and friend looking enthusiastic about new culinary experiences—in Asia

Every country wishes it had bizarre food, but few outside of the Pacific Rim can deliver. Numerous times Polish people have taken me aside and explained confidentially about kaszanka and oscypek as if they were revealing a national weakness for human flesh—black pudding and sheep cheese, wow. They don’t even eat deep-fried Mars bars here.

Nevertheless, I promised to write a post about typical Polish food and, therefore, plan to take the opportunity to rant in my customary manner.

Fresh food
Polish people who move to the UK inevitably complain that the meat and vegetables taste like poorly-illustrated cardboard versions of the real thing, and they are absolutely right. Unfortunately these same Polish people leap to the conclusion that only tomatoes grown in Poland and pork raised on Polish restaurant scraps are worth eating. The real difference is between supermarket fare and locally-grown produce. Buy tomatoes in Poland and they taste like they were grown in your neighbour’s garden because, they were grown in your neighbour’s garden. On the other hand, go to your local Carrefour in Poland and you’ll find square metres of tomatoes that taste like incompetently-coloured water—just like in England. The difference here is between an economy where agriculture is still a significant contributor and an economy where we are far too busy trading in imaginary tomato futures to actually grow any. One day soon Poland’s food supply will be dominated by unscrupulous multinationals and the local producers of tomatoes, pork and dog sausages will long ago have hanged themselves in poverty.

Bread
God, I’m sick of Polish people going on about Polish bread. You’d think it could cure death at the very least. Here’s the lowdown: Polish bread is different from other European breads because it conforms to a recipe that was dictated by decades of shortages and rationing. It’s not better, it’s just what you’re used to. Go eat a genuine French baguette or an Italian ciabatta and then tell me there is something special about Polish bread that doesn’t just refer to it’s uncanny resemblance to warmed cement.

Polish bread—building material of the future?

Kotlet schabowy
To make kotlet schabowy take a perfectly good piece of pork, beat it with a large wooden hammer until it resembles a road-accident victim and then coat it in egg, spices and flour so that you can’t taste the pork any more. As long as your customers like the taste of seasoned fried egg and flour you can’t fail—there might as well be soundly beaten bits of shoe in there and, in many cases, there probably are.

Gołąbki
Gołąbki is the most sophisticated and tasty Polish food I’ve come across, and I’m convinced it’s not really Polish. It hasn’t got any pork in it for a start—Polish cuisine is largely pork-based, to an extent that begins to look like and anti-Jewish conspiracy. It also has rice, which is about as common as tiger-loin in the typical Polish kitchen. Of course, I may be completely wrong about this—kasza and pork would do just as well as rice and tiger.

Google image search does not understand ‘gołąbki’

Please add your recommendations for the most bizarre/typical foods in Poland in the comments—powers greater than us are awaiting an answer.

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Edit

I fell down rather badly in this piece with my Polish spelling. I have now replaced ‘gołębki’ with ‘gołąbki’ and ‘kasia’ with ‘kasza.’ It was late, I was tired and emotional, I have no other excuses.

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Miniature Krakow

I am fascinated by scale models. There is something quintessentially human about making miniature versions of real-world objects. It is this ability to represent the world in a manageable and manipulable form that makes us what we are. The making of models, or sculptures, came long before the invention of writing and is clearly its intellectual ancestor. I like all kinds of models: scale-model aircraft, kitschy cottages, model villages, globes, miniature skeletons, train sets, sandcastles, snowmen, Naomi Campbell etc.

20,000 years of symbolic thought

I was delighted to discover that there are three miniature versions of Krakow scattered about the city: one on Plac Matejki, one on Plac Szczepański and one on Plac Wszystkich Świętych. These models take the abstraction one step further because they are representations of how these areas looked centuries ago rather than how they look now—they are abstract in time as well as scale. In each case these models were installed as part of renovations to these squares, so hopefully there will be more in the future as improvements to the city’s open spaces continue.

The Plac Matejki model showing the area as it was at the beginning of the 20th century. It features the Grunwald monument, the buildings surrounding the square (most of which are still standing today), St. Florian’s church and the street layout of nearby Kleparz market.

The approximate area covered by the Plac Matejki model on a 1914 map of Krakow.

The Plac Matejki model at street level.

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The Plac Szczepański model showing the area as it looked before 1801 when the square was created. A church and a Jesuit college stood where the square is now. You can also see the old city wall, now dismantled, in the background.

Bird’s eye view of the Plac Szczepański model. The view in the previous picture is from the left in this picture.

The area covered by the Plac Szczepański model on a 1785 map of Krakow. The street then called ul. Zydowska (Jewish Street) is now called ul. Świętego Tomasza (St. Thomas’ Street).

The Plac Szczepański model at street level.

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The Plac Wszystkich Świętych model showing the area as it was before Kościoła Wszystkich Świętych‬ (All Saints’ Church) was demolished in the 1830s. Note the braille inscription on the right-hand side of the base. I heard an interview with a blind person once in which he said he always bought tourist models of famous buildings when he visited a new city so he could get and idea of their form—these must be great for that purpose (except in the summer when the metal gets hot enough to burn your fingers).

Bird’s eye view of the Plac Wszystkich Świętych model.

The area covered by the Plac Wszystkich Świętych model on a 1785 map of Krakow.

A street level view of the Plac Wszystkich Świętych model.

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